Naturally, some companies that specialise in high-current and high-voltage power supplies produce models up in the kilovolt range. Specialist power supplies are available with maximum voltages over 60V, but they start to become dangerous for desktop use, so if you don’t need them, don’t buy them. If you work with industrial electronics or other fields where 48V are common, you should consider a 55-60V power supply. Most power supplies on the market reach 30V on the main channels, a voltage that will cover almost all requirements for low-voltage consumer electronics. Let’s get through the requirements one-by-one, and then we will discuss the technological tradeoffs, and recommended brands and models.Īll views and opinions expressed in this article regarding power supplies and their brands are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the position of Altium. Power supplies are like a pair of shoes: Supermarket-grade or high-fashion the most important parameter is how well they fit you. Hopefully, this guide will fill that niche and help make your decisions swiftly and confidently. I searched the world wide web far and wide for guides and recommendations but found no single comprehensive guide, or at least not one that includes power supplies from the last decade. If you don't want to drop half a grand on a skookum quality meter, AvE said the "fluke 12e" (basically a fluke 115 clone made for china only) is an awesome meter for 100 bucks.Recently I was faced with purchasing a few new power supplies. Newer models starting with the mark 3 have a battery door so you can replace the battery without voiding your calibration certification. and you also void your calibration cert by opening it. The original ones you had to disassemble the case to change the battery. If you buy a used 80 series i recommend the Mark 3 or better. it's an extra thing to do, but not that big of a deal. you have to press a button to switch to DC current. the only issue i've run into is that the current defaults to AC on the Mark V and not DC like the previous models. besides, i have literally NEVER done uA measurements. I don't have uA current measuring capability now, but otherwise it works. i unsoldered the unit and flipped it around 180 degrees and put it back in. I broke the negative lead connection for the banana jacks by dropping it. The 87III is currently in the shop at work. the LCD is showing some signs of damage from being frozen to -40 for weeks at a time during the winter but it still works fine. it's been knocked about in a toolbox for probably 20 years now.
I have three 87 series meters starting with the original 87, I replaced it with an 87 III, then replaced that with the 87V.Īll of them still work and are accurate as fuuuuu. It's a literal FORTUNE (like 500+ buck) but it's the best there is and it shows and for the pro home user it will last forever)
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